Cusco, PerÚ

Cusco “Ombligo del Mundo”

Cusco, much like Rome, was the center of one of the largest and most innovative civilizations in history. 

Legend says the first Incas, Manco Cápac and Mama Ocllo, were children of the sun god Inti, who sent them to earth to civilize humanity. They rose from the waters of Lake Titicaca, adorned in divine gold. Inti gave them a golden staff that would sink into the ground at the site where they were to establish their new city. After a long journey, the staff sank in the fertile land of the Cusco Valley, where they founded the city of Cusco, which became the center of the Inca Empire, also known as Tahuantinsuyo.

Qorikancha - Golden Enclosure

Qorikancha was the most important temple in Tahuantinsuyo. Built during the reign of Pachacutec at the emperor’s command, Qorikancha served as a religious, political, and cultural center for the Incan people. From here, Pachacutec and successive Incan emperors ruled the entire Tahuantinsuyo. Religiously, Qorikancha hosted several temples dedicated to different deities, including the moon (Mama Killa), thunder (Illapa), stars (Chasca), and most importantly, the sun god (Inti). After the Spanish arrived, they used Qorikancha as the foundation for the Church of Santo Domingo, which stands to this day.

Cuzco is a city full of history, charm, and kind people. 

“Fortress” of Saqsayhuaman

The word “fortress” is in parentheses because Saqsayhuamán was indeed a stronghold where the Incas held off the Spanish for ten days before being forced to retreat. However, Saqsayhuamán wasn’t built as a fortress; it was a ceremonial center. It is renowned for its impressive megalithic walls, constructed from massive stones meticulously cut and fitted together without mortar. Some of these stones weigh up to 200 tonnes and are so precisely arranged that not even a blade of grass can be inserted between them. The original blueprint of Cusco was designed to resemble the body of a puma, with Saqsayhuamán being the head. The zigzag pattern of the walls is believed to represent the puma’s teeth, while some historians believe it is an homage to the god of lightning. 

Emperor Pachacutec

Saqsayhuaman was founded by none other than Pachacutec. By now, you may have noticed Pachacutec played a very important role. Often compared to Alexander the Great, Pachacutec was responsible for the vast expansion of the empire, standardizing religion, establishing Quechua as the official language, and using Quipu for documentation and communication. He was known for his method of conquering other civilizations by offering them the choice to assimilate peacefully or be conquered by force. Pachacutec also commissioned the construction of the Qhapaq Ñan, an Andean highway that connected the entire empire, stretching from Quito, Ecuador in the north to Santiago, Chile in the south.

Puka Pukara - Red Fortress

Puka Pukara, meaning “Red Fortress” in Quechua, is located about 7 kilometers northeast of Cusco, Peru. The exact function of Puka Pukara is still debated. While its name suggests a military purpose, evidence indicates it may have served multiple roles. It is believed to have functioned as a military checkpoint or guard post, protecting the approaches to Cusco from the Amazonian east. Additionally, it might have been a “tambo”, or a rest stop, providing lodging for travelers and Chaskis (messengers) of the Inca Empire 

Chinchero Archaeological Site

The town of Chinchero is known for its textile and craft work today as it was even during the Incan reign. Luckily for me, locals showcased how the fabric is made, how the fabric is dyed in different colors, and how the fabric is coated for longer lasting and more vibrant colors. Chinchero was also home to the palace of Tupac Inca Yupanqui the son of Pachacutec. 

Chinchero Town

Salineras de Maras

The Salineras of Maras, located in the Sacred Valley of Cusco, Peru, are salt pans terraced along the slopes of the Qaqawiñay mountain. These salt mines have been in use since pre-Inca times, believed to have been constructed by the Wari civilization. 

Moray

Moray, was an agricultural research lab made up of terraced circular depressions. The design and depth of the terraces create a range of microclimates, allowing for the cultivation and experimentation of various crops under different conditions. The terraces were ingeniously constructed with stone and soil, incorporating effective drainage systems to prevent flooding, even during heavy rains . The Incas were known to bioengineer the potato through selective process. Over 3000 variations of the potato exist in Peru. 

Ollantaytambo

Built in the 1500s by Emperor Pachacutec, Ollantaytambo served as a royal estate and ceremonial center. The town is renowned for its agricultural terraces, which enhanced arable land and served as defensive structures. Temple Hill, often called the Fortress, includes the unfinished Temple of the Sun, the Enclosure of the Ten Niches, and various ceremonial baths and fountains, highlighting its religious significance. During the Spanish conquest, Ollantaytambo was a key Inca stronghold under Manco Inca Yupanqui, temporarily repelling Spanish forces. The town retains its original Inca layout with narrow cobblestone streets and water channels. It is a cultural site and a gateway for tourists traveling to Machu Picchu, with a train station providing access to Aguas Calientes also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo. 

Aguas Calientes - Machu Picchu Pueblo

Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, is a small town in the Urubamba Province of Cusco, Peru. It serves as the main gateway to the world-famous Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. Situated at an elevation of approximately 2,040 meters (6,690 feet), the town is surrounded by lush Andean mountains. Seeing these mountains was so humbling. It almost felt like the mountains were hugging you.

El Camino Inca - The Inca Trail

The Inca trail is a 26 mile trail from Cusco city to Machu Picchu. Today it is a 4 day 3 night journey that offers mountain and jungle scenery, Incan ruin sites, and some tunnels. Back in the day it was part of the vast Incan network that connected the entire Incan empire. The trek is definitely not for the weak as it puts you through high altitude combined with varying terrain. In the photos you can only see part of the trail.

And now to the crown jewel of the Inca Empire. 

Imagine hearing all the wonderful things about Machu Picchu, seeing all the pictures and movies, yet none of it does it justice. No matter how expensive the equipment or how much time you spend capturing Machu Picchu, it’s impossible to truly do it justice. Machu Picchu is overwhelmingly impressive and beautiful. 

The journey to Machu Picchu is long and tiring. First, you fly into Lima, Peru, which for me was about 16 hours of flights. Then, you take a flight to Cusco, where you must acclimatize to avoid altitude sickness, which could lead to a hospital visit. Once adapted to the elevation of over eleven thousand feet, you take an hour and forty-five-minute bus ride to Ollantaytambo. By then, you’ve likely taken a Cusco city tour and visited other archaeological sites along the way. From Ollantaytambo, you take a two-hour train ride to Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, where you rest and recover for the visit to Machu Picchu the next day. 

On the morning of the visit, you wake up around 4-5 am, walk to the bus station, and take a 25-minute bus ride zigzagging up the mountain. Finally, you arrive at the entrance. Then, and only then you have to do an uphill hike of about 30-45 minutes. Every step you climb is a struggle, every breath a gasp, and you rest every few steps. But then you finally reach the terrace. 

You feel emotional because this is the culmination of your trip to Peru. But Machu Picchu hides itself behind clouds, taunting you, laughing at you. After a few minutes, the clouds disperse, and the city reveals itself, and it all makes sense. The endless flights, bus and train rides, the gasping for air, the difficult hike—all become an afterthought. You’re stunned by the beauty of the magical city, high in the mountains, caressed by clouds. You feel a rush of energy, you’re rejuvenated. The Apus (mountains) speak to you, saying, “Everything is okay,” “Everything has a purpose,” “Everything you’ve done has led to this moment,” “Enjoy it,” “Breathe in the magical air,” “Absorb the divine energy and be thankful.” When I first made it to the terrace, I took off my shoes and socks, touched the grassy terrace with my bare feet, and grounded myself. I connected with the earth, gazed into the city and mountains, and that’s when the Apus spoke to me. It’s a life-changing experience. If you can afford the trip, please make it. It is 1000% worth every penny. Someday, Machu Picchu may close to the public. Partying in Miami or Vegas does not compare to the fulfillment of seeing this Wonder of the World.

Machu Picchu - Wonder of The World

The Lost City of the Incas - Machu Picchu - Meaning Old Mountain. 

Historians believe Machu Picchu was founded in the 1400s by the great Incan emperor Pachacutec. Pachacutec had Machu Picchu built high in the mountains, roughly 75 km from the Incan capital city of Cusco (Qosqo). Machu Picchu served as a retreat, where 200 concubines, called “virgins of the sun,” were always available for his choosing. Pachacutec handpicked engineers, scholars, craftsmen, and other experts from different conquered civilizations to build the city. The city contains nearly 150 structures, including various temples and even a sundial. Machu Picchu is the most well preserved remains the Incas left. During the Spanish conquest the men of the city left to help the resistance, they covered their tracks to keep the city hidden. The Spanish never reached Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu remained unknown to the outside world until 1911, when American explorer Hiram Bingham “discovered” it.

Perú 2024 - Lima

Peru, home to one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Machu Picchu and world class gastronomy including the #1 restaurant in the world, Central. During my visit, I was lucky enough to explore several beautiful city centers, markets, restaurants, and archaeological sites. I hope you can appreciate the beauty of my motherland. 

First stop is Plaza San Martin, Lima, Peru.

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Plaza San Martin, Lima, Peru

Plaza San Martin

Peru’s independence from Spain was declared on July 28, 1821, by liberator José de San Martín. Plaza San Martín pays respect to this national hero. The plaza is connected to the more important “Plaza Mayor” through “Jirón de la Unión,” which is primarily a pedestrian street.

While exploring, I stumbled upon an art gallery on the plaza and managed to sneak up to the roof of the building, where I captured a panoramic image of the plaza and a close-up image of the monument of José de San Martín, seen below.

Monument of Jose de San Martin, Plaza San Martin, Lima, Peru

Plaza San martin is home to the “Gran Hotel Bolivar”

The Bolívar Hotel is widely known for its historic importance as one of the first major hotels during the effort to modernize the city of Lima in the 1920s. The Bolívar Hotel was designed by notable Peruvian architect Rafael Marquina and was a temporary home to several Hollywood stars such as Orson Welles, John Wayne, and Ava Gardner. The hotel still maintains its charm from the 1920s, even exhibiting an original Ford Model T and a beautiful stained glass mosaic still intact from the hotel’s inauguration.

Stained glass ceiling, Boliver Hotel, Plaza San Martin, Lima, Peru

During my visit I tasted one of the strongest and most refreshing Pisco Sours I’ve ever had.

Raspberry and Traditional Pisco Sour

As mentioned before, Plaza San Martín is connected to Plaza Mayor through the pedestrian walkway “Jirón de la Unión,” where I took a short walk and captured some of its charm.

Street Guitarist

Iglesia virgen de la Merced, Jiron de la Union, Lima, Peru

Plaza Mayor, Lima

Once I made it Plaza Mayor, Lima’s mayor was presenting a new motorcade for the city. Lima’s Plaza Mayor is similar to the plazas in Spain, almost identical in layout. The plaza always features a cathedral and possibly a government building. In this case, it is the Government Palace.

Corridor in Plaza Mayor

Cathedral in Plaza Mayor, Lima, Peru

Government Palace

Lima, like other cities in Peru, is full of informal businesses and commerce. Everywhere you turn, you will see someone selling candy, souvenirs, fruit, or whatever they can get their hands on, such as lightbulbs, cleaning supplies, and even calculators.

street vendor in typical attire

and just around the corner is…

Church & Convent of San Francisco

One of the most beautiful gems in Lima is the Church and Convent of San Francisco. Here, you can see the different cultural influences in the architecture. The Spanish brought their own architectural style, which already had Arab influence since Spain was ruled by the Moors for several hundred years. The church is recognized for its catacombs beneath the church floor and its beautiful water fountain outside, which is frequently visited by pigeons.

Unfortunately when I visited the entrance was under construction and was completely covered.

Luckily, while I was there, I was able to take the full tour. Unfortunately, photos during the tour were not allowed.

Church and Convent of San Francsico, Lima, Peru

Souvenir vendor hiding behind merchandise

after visiting the church the adventure continues…

Retired Train Station now House of Peruvian Literature

child street vendor

Often, you’ll see little children selling candy or gum. After taking this picture, we gifted the little boy a Hot Wheels car, and it completely changed his day.

street violinist

The staple of any good Peruvian neighborhood is a decent little family bodega. In Lima, we have one literally across the street from our house. In Arequipa, it’s just around the corner. I always remember being sent to buy different things from the bodega, like 3-liter sodas, milk, or even a 6-pack of beer, as a child.

Chinatown, Lima

Chinatown was the most bustling and energetic corner of Lima during my visit; it was nearly overwhelming. As a little kid, when I visited Lima, my father would take me to Chinatown. He used to go there to buy fresh green tea leaves and certain medicines. Every visit to Chinatown required a stop at the corner shop that sold Min Pao, a giant dumpling filled with meat. You wouldn’t quite understand how delicious it is until you try it. The photo above shows the view of the entrance to Chinatown from the Min Pao corner shop.

Larcomar, Miraflores, Lima

The last stop in Lima on the first day of my trip was the Larcomar Mall, which offers a beautiful view of the malecón. From this angle, you can see the regions of Barranco and Chorrillos all the way in the back, where there’s an illuminated cross.